LFW – BETHAN HOLT’S GUEST BLOG #3: A Tale of two Fashion Shows
Date Posted: 16 September
Posted By: barnaby | No Comments
A tale of two fashion shows
In every fashion show, there are some basic details which are always the same. There’s a backstage area, a flurry of busy PR representatives to make sure everyone’s sitting in the right place, a few rows of benches for everyone to sit on, oh, and a catwalk of course! But after that, every show is entirely different. Two shows I attended today were a case in point.
First up was the debut of 1205, designed by former Savile Row Paula Gerbase. She has brought her expert menswear skills to what you would probably call a unisex market, even though she is ostensibly showing as part of womenswear. Her debut catwalk show was held in an abandoned outbuilding in the heart of London, behind the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine. It was a cool and minimal setting with just a single row of benches and a decidedly “in the know” feel, with top journalists from US Vogue and The New York Times in attendance. The collection comprised those things which you just need to have in your wardrobe as the basis for a brilliant outfit; a charcoal grey jumpsuit, a loose and louche navy blue trouser suit and a pristine white shirt dress (not so dissimilar from TP’s own Robyn dress). There was complexity in the construction and the fabrications which resulted in a feeling of amazing quality and luxury. Backstage Gerbase told me, “I just begin with the intimacy which we all feel with our clothes and how they work with our bodies”. Quite right too.
In direct contrast to the streamlined tailoring at 1205 was Ashish who showed back at Somerset House in a riot of colour and sequins- his absolute speciality. Ashish is a master of maximalism and this season he did not disappoint as he partnered up with Coca Cola. He took the world famous logo and beaded it into its glitziest incarnation yet. The show’s “story” was a simple one, just a girl popping out to the shops for some milk. But I’m pretty sure she got way laid at some point as the finale was a bride and groom. Other notable pieces were riffs on supermarket bags; M&S became S&M while Tesco became Disco.
The one thing which unifies these two seemingly completely different shows? That feeling that you’ve just been privy to a new idea or exciting trend development. I love that feeling of not quite knowing what you’ll discover next.